Rome, at Home: The Spirit of la cucina romana in Your Kitchen
by Suzanne Dunaway

Reviewed by Kevin Schoeler

We just finished reading Suzanne Dunaway’s new cookbook, Rome, at Home: The Spirit of la cucina romana in Your Kitchen. Setting it aside was difficult. One particular recipe, Fiori di Zucca, (Fried Stuffed Zucchini Flowers), kept surfacing. Then it was Wednesday, where heaps of sturdy, fresh zucchini flowers awaited at the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market. So, we bought a few dozen. Then off to Bay Cities for some fresh mozzarella and good white anchovy fillets.

Later that evening we stuffed the blossoms with the cheese and anchovies, dipped them in Dunaway’s Pastella I batter, and then fried them in a thin layer of hot olive oil. When finished, they were golden, crispy, and begging for a sprinkle of lemon juice. We ate them as fast as the oozing hot filling would allow. For such a simple snack, their complexity was astounding: a blast of crunch, a soft center, vaguely sweet, boldly astringent—and a lingering hint of the sea. Addictive would be putting it mildly.

Rome, at Home is Dunaway’s second book. This native Texan has been having a longtime love affair with Rome, but she is also local to Los Angeles. She is founder, owner and head baker of the Southland’s own Buona Forchetta Hand Made Breads, a ten-year-old bakery that supplies artisan breads like Hazelnut Sage Filoncino, and Rosemary Focaccia to restaurants, hotels and markets in Southern California. After several years in business, Dunaway wrote the well-received No Need to Knead: Handmade Italian Breads in 90 Minutes. And now we are the grateful recipients of her engaging treatise on classic Roman cooking.

Rome, at Home is packed with pastas, soups, vegetables, breads and desserts based on simple combinations and unfussy treatments of fresh ingredients. Amazing meals from this book tend to require little shopping and minimal time in the kitchen. The recipes seduced us: the ones we tested were flawless; the ones we read had us planning menus for the next three seasons. Bruschette topped with thin slices of young artichoke that have been sautéed in olive oil and sprinkled with fresh lemon juice make us grateful for California’s superior harvest and the markets that bring us these thistles. Pomodori al Riso (Tomatoes Stuffed with Rice) is a fine use of summer tomatoes, when the supply seems endless. In fact, that is also the time, says Dunaway, to whiz the surplus in a food processor, skin and seeds too, and freeze them for winter.

What is the food of Rome? How about a starter of Carpaccio con Salsa di Mostarda o la Rughetta (Thin Sliced Beef with Mustard Sauce or Arugula). Dunaway’s pastas shine—from simple Spaghetti al Pesto (she makes a toothsome pistachio-based basil pesto) to simply rustic Bucatini all’Amatriciana o alla Gricia (with pork cheek and onion), to simply beguiling Fettuccine con Tartufi Bianchi (white truffles trump all). Her gnocchi, ravioli and risotto dishes thankfully defy Atkins. What is a world without Risotto ai Funghi Porcini (with porcini mushrooms), or mesmerizing black Risotto al Nero di Seppie (with cuttlefish and their ink)? For the protein set, there’s plenty in the seafood, poultry and meat categories. Grilled fishes, like branzino. Just stuffed with a little rosemary and served with lemons. There are two choices of Pastellas (batters) with which to fry up perfect Fritto Misto.

Pollo alla Parmigiana translates to breaded, pan-fried chicken breasts sauced with a velveteen, lemony, Parmigian-Reggiano cream. But if you seek something lighter, she’ll show you the way to Pollo Arrosto con Patate (with potatoes). We delighted in Abbacchio all Scottadito, also known as Finger-Burning Lamb Chops, served with grilled onions and garlic-rubbed toasted bread. Dunaway’s Meatloaf with Mashed Potatoes should be the new standard-bearer in the comfort food category—but we won’t give it away here. Everyone should try Vitello Tonnato (Veal with Tuna Sauce) at least once. You will return for more.

A section on game covers duck, wild boar, partridge—and an easy Grilled Quail with Polenta. Vegetables get their own chapter. Although they figure in many dishes throughout the book, Dunaway teaches standalone vegetables like perfect sautéed greens, and Fava Beans with Toasted Sage and Garlic.

We also learn perfect pizzas and breads from the skilled baker—Dunaway’s are the only pizza doughs you’ll ever need. Top her Pizza Bianca with Italian canned tuna and capers, or thinly sliced ham and hard-boiled eggs. Top the crisper basic pizza with fresh mozzarella and cherry tomatoes and you’ll need nothing more.

Desserts are trustworthy Gelati and Sorbetto recipes, excellent tarts of fig or apple, an easy Torta di Ricotta, and a memorable Tiramisu. And we appreciated the Limoncello recipe at the very end.

Rome, at Home is a delightful experience and a useful cookbook packed with more than 150 delicious recipes. For the traveler there’s a section on markets, restaurants, bars and wine shops in Rome. For the stay-at-home cook, Dunaway is helpful with sources. What’s not to love about Rome, at Home? It feels good to read. It’s down-to-earth. It celebrates Rome. And it makes us very hungry.

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